I thought an interim update to my vacuum leak/carb whistle might be of interest, and some information is worth documenting here.

In a RallyBob thread, he confirmed that the double-sealed bearings I bought from Amazon:

uxcell MR128-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearings 8mm Inner Dia 12mm OD 3.5mm Bore Double Sealed Chrome Steel Z2 10pcs https://a.co/d/3coB0r7

had the same dimensions as the sealed bearings that came with the WeberJet.com kit (12 mm OD, 8 mm ID, 3.5 mm wide).

Aside from not getting the throttle shaft plate screws, the main difference seems to be the price. A kit with two bearings would have cost me $25.77 CAD (~$20 USD), so $40 USD for a two-shaft 38 DGAS. The Amazon bearings cost me $8.99. For ten (10!) bearings! That is 90 cents apiece.

The bearings arrived, but I wasn’t looking forward to the lengthy process of removing and rebuilding and re-gasketing the carb, right in the middle of driving season. Which is all too short here in Alberta. And I noticed that the whistle seemed to change from day to day. Hmm, is it (also) perhaps a DIFFERENT vacuum leak?

I had installed this Weber with special 11 mm head copper nuts on M8x1.25 cut down studs, with star locking washers and «whicking» type Lok-Tite. No way those are loose. Right?

Umm, a half turn on each nut, and the whistle is gone.

Still have a bit of a throttle shaft leak, as evidenced by the idle AFR (I have a wide-band sensor) changing a half point when I wobble the shaft. But the off-idle stumble is gone, and the whistle, which a friend describes as a turbo sound from 100 metres away, is also gone.

So the sealed bearings can wait until winter, at which time I will do a proper carb rebuild.

I’m wondering which is the better carb to put in a series III with 1724 engine and automatic transmission.
In drive the car starts out in 2nd gear, I think the Weber 38/38 should give more power starting out.
The Weber 32/36 should get a better fuel economy. Thoughts?

If you warm the motor up the 38sync carb will help more.

Never heard of a sync link but googling I get responses like good but why not go with a 38. Also low rpm stumble.
I would have thought a 38 synchronus would be more fuel & more air throughout the rpm range.

Last edited: Mar 11, 2023

Even though I’m not a real fan of «Webbers» on our british cars,

Nobody wants a BBQ

I am very happy with my 38 DGES but, as Michael said, my engine has been warmed up quite a bit. I think I would go with the 32/26 for a ‘normal’ engine.

Actually I first ran the 38/38 on a stock Series III engine. You need to modify the intake for the 38 sizing. I found more fun factor as a result. I took first in class at the 2004 SUNI Autocross. Note: I had never driven an autocross and really feel it was about the additional power (plus the close ratio Series III transmission). It certainly wasn’t my driving ability. I was like a clown driving in a circus. The drivers door latch wasn’t adjusted properly and would swing open when I took a right hand turn. I then was driving and holding the door. Definitely entertaining for the crowd watching.

Last edited: Mar 10, 2023

Back in the ’90s, I worked on several Alpines.

One had a Weber 38/38 DGAS, it was FAR and away the Zippiest Alpine I had ever driven!

For the longest time I attributed the performance to the Carb.

However, recently, I think the Most likely scenario is that Zippy Alpine

had a LIGHT Weight Flywheel!

BUT, clearly, That Carb worked VERY well.

Not getting that zippiness from a BW35 torque converter

We shouldn’t underestimate the BW35 Auto gearbox. We have 3 Auto Alpines over here and I must say they are performing surprisingly well, despite the torque converter may eat some power. What is good about them is the instant «bite» with no shift pauses from the traffic lights. A club friend is now building up one of the 5 S3 auto Prototypes with a 2l hot engine. Quite a challenge since not many specialists for BW35 rebuilds here anymore. We’ll see how it goes 😉

The later 70s Japanese transmissions are BW based.. some here used the later 4speed BW design to update their auto Alpines

Regardless of the transmission/flywheel my seat of the pants comparison determined
the 38/38 is going to give more «zippy» performance over the 32/36. This is comparing the stock transmission and flywheel.

Jerry, I’m not doubting your butt dyno ™ and a 38/38 is essentially a single carb equivalent of the 2x 150cd Strom setup ..
I’m just saying on the auto setup I suspect the 32/36 progressive might be better in general

Either will probably be good, and I’ve read that the 38’s are trickier to find the best jetting.
I’m going with the 32/36. Thanks for all your input.

«The 32/36 DGV progressive carburetor as used in any REDLINE kit is pre-calibrated and set to run on most normal standard and stock engines and provide a performance and fuel economy improvement. If that engine has been upgraded or improved with other performance items there will be a need to recalibrate or rejet the carburetor in some situations. There is a performance jet kit just for the Jeep applications Pt No. 701-DGV.

«The 38 DGAS synchronous carburetor when supplied in kit form from REDLINE is also pre-calibrated for use on stock or slightly modified motors and will not be over carbureted. It also provides the best starting point for engines that are ultimately going to be upgraded with additional performance Items with performance over fuel economy being the ultimate goal.»

I used the Jeep form straight out of the box with no jetting issues. The engine performance doesn’t have anything to do with which transmission its coupled too. That being said, maybe I’m missing something regarding the match of an engine (stock or improved performance) to a BW35. I have a BW35 in my 1967 Jaguar 340 (last of the MK IIs) and I will be putting in a rebuilt engine with a bit more bore and performance. My only thought, with a higher performing engine the 340 should have better get-up-and-go fun factor. I could put in a manual 4 speed with OD, but I want to keep this one as original as possible to honor its original owner, Three Star General, George Phillips Sneff.

Knighttow61 good choice when you are just trying to get a bit more performance out of a stock Alpine engine. The 32/36 is what the majority Alpine owners use.

Last edited: Mar 12, 2023

The autos torque converter (espcially on the BW35) slows down the motor pick-up and how the power is delivered.. also the fewer gears and their spacing, hence why a progressive carb may suit the way auto alpine will perform and offer 90% of the usable performance of the 38/38 sync but with a better feel of response and of course economy.

Last edited: Mar 13, 2023

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